Sunday, August 10, 2014

Delhi 1.0 Day 2


Today started at 4:30AM—so basically my day started at night. Our hotel is literally down the road from the Taj Mahal-but because it is such a popular attraction we needed to be there when the gates opened. And as much as it sucked to get out of my fluffy bed that early, it was worth it. The sun rising at the Taj was really cool, and lets be honest, the Taj itself is just really cool. AMAZING actually. Kind of like my understanding of Ghandi, I have always thought the Taj was magnificent and I’ve always wanted to see it, but I didn't know a lot about it. I should of googled it before I came—oh wait I don’t have internet. But it was unreal. Its beauty, how old it is (it was built in the mid 1600’s and took about 20 years), the fact that it is all made out of marble which means it was hand chiseled (chip chip chip) by thousands of people-AND-is perfectly aligned-completely geometrically aligned. I didn’t know this prior to seeing it but it isn’t all white. When you get up close there are all sorts of inlay stone work, made from precious and semiprecious stones such as lapis, onyx, rubies, emeralds, etc. The settings were chiseled into the huge piece of marble and pretty much all of them are still in place-due to the preciseness of the stone cutting and the secret glue that was used to place them as well.  There is so much detail in every nook and cranny.  Whole panels of tiny little details carved so intricately; where one mess up at the end would have required the whole piece to be thrown away, which you know had to happen a time or two.  We couldn’t take pictures inside but that's okay because I got plenty of pictures of the outside. I can see why most people include in on the list of the Seven Wonders of the World. I didn’t want to leave—but I ended up having to a little sooner then the rest of the group because the eighth wonder of the world—which had been rumbling in my stomach all morning-was dangerously close to making its debut. And of course the squatters were on the other side of the complex (the Taj is just one of the buildings within the complex) and I almost didn’t make it. No joke, no exaggeration, I was scoping out possible bushes to hide behind as I was sweaty like a marathoner, clenching my fists (and every other part of my lower body for that matter) and walking as briskly as I could (despite the pain it caused me) to the restroom. I don’t even want to think about how my grimacing face must have looked to passerby’s. I assure you it wasn’t pretty. I began emotionally preparing myself to accept/deal with being the first tourist to full on mess themselves at the Taj Mahal. And to shield myself against the pointing and laughing and camera flashing that was bound to accompany my newfound claim to fame. On top of all this, I was praying pretty freaking hard, I may have even offered a few prayers to Allah simple because of where I was and because I needed all the help I could get. By some miracle, I reached the bathroom, and at that point running (while clenching still so I’m sure it looked super good) was necessary. The bathroom attendant was yelling something at me to (come to find out later she was wasn’t asking for money she was telling me to come get toilet paper from her---which would have been INCREDIBLY helpful) to which I yelled back “I can’t! Ill pay you later!!” as I was shutting the door in her face. Needless to say, having no toilet paper made cleaning up eventful too but I’ll spare you those details. It suffices to say that I’m pretty sure I lost/left at least 5 lbs worth of my insides at the Taj Mahal. I’m just really really grateful that it didn’t end up being in or on the Taj Mahal.

At first they tease you by making you go through this big courtyard.....



And then you go through the actual gate.....




My very first glimpse...



AND FINALLY!!!!!



Of course you have to take a group pic



And then the photographer has you do little poses and you feel kind of silly but its okay because you are at the freaking Taj Mahal!!!








All your friends take amazing Taj Mahal selfies---and you try too (because you already feel like a dork from the photographer's poses so what the heck) and FAIL miserably several several times. Then there is one that semi works out---still not very good by any means---but it makes it into the blogposts pics because it was a funny memory.



 Then you obviously have no choice but to take more pictures, but I was nice and only added three more here.




(Love this girl!)

You get to rock temple open house booties at the Taj too! 



Sadly, pictures are not allowed inside.......











And it's even gorgeous from the back!


Ironically, the first thing we did after the Taj Mahal was go back to our hotel so we could eat at the most amazing breakfast buffet around. I tried to be cautious at first, but when it came down to it I was starving and they had real buttermilk pancakes so I dug right in. I figured that if the Delhi Belly was going to show up again it would be better to have that happen at our hotel instead of another sacred land mark. Luckily, I was “okay” for the rest of the day though-not fully better, just okay. See, God/Allah do love me!

After resting a bit-and facetiming with my mom who I hadn’t talked to for fiveish weeks now-we went to visit Agra Fort. Agra Fort use to be the living quarters of the the king who built the Taj Mahal as a final resting place for his wife. There was a portion of the fort that we couldn’t go into because the government army was currently using it (comforting right) but it was pretty fascinating. BIG too. I kept envisioning what it would of looked like back in it’s glory days. I hear there is a movie about the empower and his wife—a historical love story-that was filmed in the same locations I have already seen/am going to see while I am in Delhi. I’m pretty sure we have it in the Elephant house so that is going on my to do list as well. The most interesting part of Agra Fort wasn’t necessarily the fort itself, as it was some of the other visitors. There was a whole bus of cross dressed men that pulled up the same time we did, and our tour guide just casually said “Oh they are just a bunch of Eunuchs, don’t mind them.” Well I flashed back to the cross dresser I met in Pondicherry and was curious why they were referred to as Eunuchs, because my understanding on the word Eunuch comes from the bible and it doesn’t mean cross dressing men, where apparently here in India that is exactly what it means. Come to find out, Indians refer to hermaphrodites as Eunuchs. When a hermaphrodite is born, they are taken away to hermaphrodite colonies (kind of like leprosy colonies from the best I could understand) where they live and socialize with only other Eunuchs. To say they are social outcasts would be an understatement though. At least I would assume so based off what I saw at Agra Fort. Interestingly enough, in the olden days, like when these palaces and forts were fully occupied and functioning, Eunuchs were used as servants/advisors/guardians to the queen and princesses, because they were “safe” to do so. Crazy huh.



Elephant loading and unloading dock






Part of the original wall








What was a swimming pool







After the fort we visited a stone inlay shop that is owned and operated by the direct descendants of the people who built the Taj Mahal. They showed us how they did it and then showed us their products. It was fascinating, and I could of bought a lot of things in that store had they not been insanely expensive. Maybe one day I can justify spending that kind of money on stone inlayed elephants and table tops. Until then I will just have to enjoy the pictures I took and settle for much less quality inlay work that I can bargain hard for.


Those are all individual pieces of stone that the workers hand shape and polish and piece together themselves. Crazy huh!


 It blows my mind.





 In the afternoon we started our drive from Agra to Jaipur-the next stop of our golden triangle tour. This drive wasn’t as tranquil as the one to Agra was, but it was filled with little random pit stops that were really fun instead. One time we just pulled over to the side of the road in the middle of no where and this guy came to the window with little knick knacks at crazy good prices. I got some cool jewelry and stone carved elephants from him. Then we stopped to see this water temple that reminded me something off of the Labyrinth. It has 32 levels, but some of the levels were covered in water. Every year people come jump off specifically designated rock platforms into the bright green water underneath (yummy right?) as part of a religious ceremony. There were other carvings around the labyrinth temple that all had parts of their face chipped off. There is a believe in Hinduism that once a statue of a god has some kind of damage done to it's face, it can no longer be worshipped, so during one of the Islam/Hindu conflicts an army of Muslims came in and chipped away parts of or all of the statues faces.








There was another temple we toured across the road, and then visited this old man and his wife who were potters. We watched him do it flawlessly, and then each tried our hand on the pottery wheel. Treg was a natural, I was okayish as first, but instead of cutting it off when it was small and simple I decided to keep going. Which was a disaster that ended in an unrecognizable pile of clay on the wheel as well as smeared across my left leg. You win some and lose some I guess. I’ve always wanted to try working on a pottery wheel though so I’m glad I got the chance.






He/she was the loudest little squirrel ever













Look at that concentration





Guess which one is mine......


We finally made it to Jaipur-which like a lot of the other places we have been over the last few days is an ancient turned modern town made up of mostly Hindus and Muslims--like most of Northern India. Our hotel was SWEET!!. Not sweet as in super luxiourous like our hotel in Agra was, but sweet as in it was a former Prime Ministers house that has been renovated as a hotel. It was called Naila Bagh Palace and palace it was, just a little more modern then the other palaces we’ve been going to, but still old and historical as well. Think Jane Austen homes with an Indian flair.  The internet says it is “the former residence of the Royal Rajput Family since 1872.” Basically it was the coolest. And there were peacocks on the premises—which I know were there not because I ever saw them but because I heard them plenty of times. This hotel had a shower, but it was cold---so it wasn’t worth it to me.








Dinner was at another incredible Indian food restaurant with garlic naan again of course. Benson burst my dairy food in India bubble by telling me that the almost all the milk we drink, cheese we eat, etc., comes from water buffalos and not cows. I don't like the milk products here as much as I do the ones at home—and that was before I was told the truth. Now, I still like the milk, it is just a little weird to grasp, but I’m coping fairly well. At dinner there was a funny little puppet show complete with fire effects as well as puppets jumping out at you. I have no idea how people can do all that with the simple use of strings. The puppeteer let us try-those puppets were heavy little things. He was a very humble person too. So humble that I would never write anything sarcastic about him…….ahem…….


Also, it has been weird to be out and about at night. We are out and about the lighted paths of campus at night, but I have never been outside campus at night--that is not allowed--so it has been strangely exciting to experience the "Indian night life scene" some. It's not like it is a ton different, it is just as crowded and stinky and busy and animal filled and awesome as it is in the day. Moral of the story is I love it day or night--night is just a little more new and exciting for me right now.